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Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni makes his way to downtown pseudo-speakeasy La Esquina, where entry is acheived via all sorts of exotic hoop-jumping:

"The harder it is to get in, the more fun it is to be in," [a companion] said, articulating a maxim of Manhattan night life and a guiding principle of La Esquina, which is sort of like Studio 54 with chipotle instead of cocaine.

Oh, Frank — chipotle and cocaine. Sounds like someone didn't get to the secret room behind the VIP room.

A Secret Too Dark to Keep [NYT]