It's thanks to dishes like the "superb" rabbit terrine that the Times' Frank Bruni awards two stars to Bar Milano, even though the Murray Hill northern Italian restaurant "bungles its pasta dishes," has "awful acoustics," and is "slickness incarnate." [NYT]
Taking on restaurant-y wine bars, the Times' Frank Bruni gives a star apiece to Jody Williams' Gottino and Marco Canora's Terroir, where he deems the pork blade steak the best dish he's had in months. [NYT]
