Jeffrey Chodorow's Borough opens tonight. After a peek last night, we're convinced it's by far the most restrained of his recent restaurants. No ninja swords, as at Kobe Club, no golden spermy fish hanging from the ceiling, as at Wild Salmon. That's not to say the place doesn't have a gimmick. The idea behind the menu (by Zak Pelaccio, late of 5 Ninth) is that it represents the food stuffs from the ethnic communities that can be found in New York's 5 Boroughs. Borough, get it? There were fried pickles for the Jews, fried chicken for the Blacks, and clam casino flatbreads for the Itals. This is the restaurant version of Joseph Sitt's Coney Island: There's something for everyone. Except the Asians.