♦ Frank Bruni gives Double Crown two stars in today's Times: "It's an intensely pleasant place to hang out, the friendly service and festive atmosphere papering over the menu's weak spots." [NYT]
♦ Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton probably won't be returning to Jeffrey Chodorow's new steakhouse ("Center Cut serves a variety of items that should have died in the previous century"). But he's pretty pleased with Tom Valenti's West Branch. [Bloomberg]
♦ Where to eat out, order in, drink, and party for Thanksgiving. [Eater]

♦ Frank Bruni reviews Allegretti this week and gives it two stars: "Although some dishes are overwrought, with an ingredient or two too many, and a few utterly miss their mark, more are executed with finesse and with a wicked sense of indulgence." [NYT]
♦ Alan Richman is pleased with Paul Liebrandt's Corton, reserving special praise for its sous vide chicken. [GQ]
♦ A report on how restaurants across the country are coping with the downturn. [NYT]