Frank Bruni finds Midtown seafood stalwart Oceana "still very much worth boarding," handing it three stars and deeming its fish "superbly cooked." [NYT]
New York's Adam Platt is the latest to shower praise on Scott Conant's meatpacking Italian restaurant Scarpetta, where he give out three stars for the "high-minded, almost priestly brand of Italian cooking." [NYM]
Gourmet's Ruth Reichl "fell head over heels" for the "gutsy, flavor-forward food" and "extraordinary" pastas at Michael White's brand-new Convivio. [Gourmet]
Gael Greene is won over by the "soba seduction" at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's new Matsugen, though she disapproves of the "dully illuminated" space itself. [NYM]
Paul Adams offers up a Scarpetta spanking in this week's Sun, chiding chef Scott Conant for spending "evenings schmoozing at the bar, while the kitchen's output feels rote and uninspired." [NYS]
The Daily News' Danyelle Freeman likes Williamsburg Mexican-Italian joint Miranda to the tune of two out of five stars, giving special props to its "wonderfully glutinous" Mexican rice. [NYDN]
Sietsema of the Voice seems pretty pleased with the West Village's new "glorified taqueria" Cabrito. His fave dish is the mackerel en escabeche, "a perfect plank of oily, strong-tasting fish smothered in pickled onions." [VV]
The New Yorker's Andrea Thompson is a big fan of Eric and Bruce Bromberg's Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar, where the bartenders "convey their knowledge with enthusiasm rather than superiority." [NYer]