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♦ Frank Bruni reviews Allegretti this week and gives it two stars: "Although some dishes are overwrought, with an ingredient or two too many, and a few utterly miss their mark, more are executed with finesse and with a wicked sense of indulgence." [NYT]
♦ Alan Richman is pleased with Paul Liebrandt's Corton, reserving special praise for its sous vide chicken. [GQ]
♦ A report on how restaurants across the country are coping with the downturn. [NYT]

♦ Tom Colicchio sounds off on how he's dealing with the recession. [NYO]
♦ Michael Huynh opens BarBao tonight. [GS]
♦ Steve Cuozzo can't help but enjoy his experience at Double Crown: "The place is a delight in spite of itself. It's not only beautiful, but warm and winning as you'd never guess from its promotional mythology." [NYP]
♦ An interview with Bobo owner Carlos Suarez on the restaurant's one-year anniversary. [Eater]
♦ A first look at Almond, which opened last night in the former Borough Food and Drink space. [GS]
♦ A judge has awarded a group of Saigon Grill deliverymen $4.6 million in back pay and damages. [NYP]